The Bernina Express - How to Make the Most of Your Journey
- elleno1962
- 3 minutes ago
- 5 min read
ITALY BY TRAIN - PART 3
Some have said, “You can’t go back”. However, this is precisely what I hoped to do when Pete and I planned the last leg of our grand Italy escape in Sept, 2025.
Having traveled by train all through Switzerland, I felt eager to wrap up this vacation by taking the Bernina Express, originating in Torano (not to be confused with Torino), Italy. I had a vast array of choices as to which Swiss town to spend a couple of nights after disembarking in Chur. Because Pete and I enjoyed Pontresina so much in 2017, we thought we’d “do it again” eight years later.
Would we have as much fun? After all, we were also eight years older.
First, riding the Bernina Express is worth experiencing. Zipping along through the majestic Alps, this particular route is a UNESCO World Heritage rail line. I just wish I had paid more attention to our seat selection.
Travelers Tip: On the Bernina Express going North from Turano, sit facing forward on the left; on the right when traveling south. Our seats faced backward on the left with a wall next to me blocking our view. Trust me, having a good seat with a full window view makes a difference.
From Chur, it was a short SBB (Swiss railway) ride to Pontresina, Switzerland. We were so excited to be back, hoping to recreate the magic we felt eight years earlier.
I felt giddy returning to the Walther Hotel. Family owned and managed, I can’t say enough good things about the lovely, recently redecorated grand hotel. Upon arrival, one of the owners, Anne Rose Walther, personally welcomed us back. Graciously, Madame Walther upgraded our room which we certainly appreciated.
And here is where my blog post goes from travel diary to opinion.
No, I don’t think it is often possible to recreate the magic felt when someone freshly discovers a new hotel, city, scenic spot, restaurant, or experience. You can come close maybe; but for us, there were factors that we couldn’t ignore, such as:
Pete and I were indeed older, and felt older. Although we hoped to do the same three hour hike (Panoramic) near our hotel, the weather and my body said, “No”. In 2017, the day was warm and sunny. In 2025, we experienced a chilly wind I couldn’t ignore even with a hat and gloves.
My knees! Did I mention I received a cortisone shot in each knee the day we departed Philadelphia? Though I didn’t feel discomfort in either knee during the trip, just knowing I now have arthritis played mind games with me. Using walking sticks, I felt confident enough but couldn’t enjoy my surroundings with the same abandon I felt several years earlier. Today, I have a new respect for “Fear of Falling”.
While the Walther is gorgeous! - our beloved piano player from 2017 wasn’t there anymore. HIs replacement was nice enough but his repertoire for afternoon tea and the evening set could put an insomniac to sleep. No dancing this time.
The spa, still lovely, wasn’t lively like it had been. The hot tub water was freezing when we tried to use it after check in. We didn’t know the spa hours are now more limited and that the hot tub isn’t “hot” until certain hours of the day ( a real bummer for two people exhausted from two weeks of pulling luggage around Italy.
Now, don’t get me wrong. We loved our repeat stay at the Walther. The amenities are lovely, breakfast is amazing, the afternoon tea in the stunning lobby lounge is delightful, and the beds are super comfy. I simply missed the excitement of discovering.
It had been a long trip and Pete and I were ready to return to Phil’s home in the Netherlands after two weeks of galavanting. Once again, I booked the NightJet from Zurich to Amsterdam, hoping that we’d have as good of an experience as we had taking the same train to Vienna in 2018.
We used our time in Zurich before boarding as wisely as possible - including lots of shopping!
Traveler’s Tip: Although quite expansive, the Zurich train station locker area is a zoo! We hunted for over 20 minutes to find four lockers to store our luggage for the day. Folks were getting a tad aggressive so don’t pussy foot. When you see a green light on the locker, take it! The lockers are easy to use but read the directions carefully. We saw more than a few folks needing help from the “locker police”.
When in Switzerland, treat yourself to things that the Swiss do so well such as: clocks, watches, and chocolate. I have three Jowissa watches, each very different. Costing less than $150 per watch, all three are stylish and keep perfect time. Load up on Laderach chocolate, first tried by Pete and me in Lucerne in 2017. Though there are now Laderach shops in the US, I find the chocolate somehow tastier in its “home” country.
The Nightjet was fun. We didn’t get a whole lot of sleep due to a banging door that a conductor finally fixed with tape; but overall, we loved capping off our big Italian foray with a sleeper train ride.
To answer the question, “Can two people in their 60’s enjoy a DIY trip dragging their luggage on and off 23 buses and trains? ”, it certainly helps to be in great physical condition. With Pete getting around on a rebuilt ankle and two bum shoulders, and me with my arthritis in both knees, I think it is safe to say, “We are done”. It may be time to let others be in charge of our luggage and not be so ambitious with the itinerary.
That being said, I have recently booked and planned a combination trip; 15 days of a guided tour to Vietnam and Cambodia with a friend along with solo travel to Bangkok. Traveling in the footsteps of my grandmother, I will also see Tokyo. To get ready, I’m already in training building up the muscles in my legs and core.
This trip in particular drove home that there is a limited time when you can just jet set around without worrying about illness or injury. No matter what age, I recommend buying trip insurance.
Traveler’s Tip: Be mindful of your body and its limits. At 63, I buy travel insurance anytime I travel. It can cost thousands of dollars to get yourself home if you suffer a calamity. During my travels, I have met more than a few folks in wheelchairs, slings, or crutches after suffering an injury during their travels. Most of them did not have trip insurance and regretted they didn’t “push the button” when booking their trip. In my experience Generali gives you the most bang for your buck.
Happy planning til next time!!
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